Waterfront Wanderings

‘The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea.’ – Isak Dinesen.

Wellington waterfront is my favourite place to go in the city. Not only does it offer some respite from the snarling traffic and irritating bleeping pedestrian crossings that take AGES before letting you go, it also offers some prime people watching, various great activities (if you are so inclined) and, on a sunny day, a place to chill out and catch some rays.

There are various reasons why I love the waterfront. I have compiled a list of just a few of the reasons why I go there and like it above other places in the city I will now call ‘home’ for the foreseeable future.
Te Papa Museum
No trip to the waterfront can be complete without visiting Te Papa, especially if it’s your first time in the city. Te Papa is New Zealand’s national museum, and is full to the brim with fantastic interactive displays and wall-to-wall information about New Zealand’s past, present and future. Whilst it is Natural History Museum (my favourite museum ever, it takes some beating!!), it offers several hours entertainment, especially if you bulk out your visit with a stop at the café on Floor 4, where they serve a delicious hot lemon, ginger and honey drink for NZ$4, as well as tea, coffee, cold drinks and an array of tasty looking cakes. My favourite part of the museum is the art section on Floor 5, and the earthquake section. There is also a viewing balcony on Floor 6.

Above: One of the art installations in Te Papa – ‘Daylight Flotsam Venice’ by Bill Culbert.

I’ve been to the museum three times now. It’s not huge, but it is full of interesting things and if there is a new display on (like there was today – a history of Air New Zealand in celebration of their 75th anniversary), it can provide a welcome distraction to every day life (especially if you’re waiting for a phone call, as I was today!).

People Watching
As you’ll know from my previous post about people watching on South Bank, in London, it is one of my favourite pass times. In some respects, Wellington’s waterfront reminds me a bit of South Bank, which is perhaps why I like the place so much.

On a sunny day, it is the perfect place to go to sit on a bench and just watch the world go by. The variety is endless and there are unique opportunities to sit and enjoy watching people (mostly guys) jumping from the diving platform to cool off in the murky green water below. Crowds usually gather when someone is brave enough to do this (the platform is quite high!), clapping and cheering and shrieking if they accidentally get splashed.

Above: A person jumping from the diving platform – you can jump from 5 or 8m.

Artwork
It took me a while to begin to notice the artwork along the waterfront, even though it’s all around you when you’re walking along. My favourite artwork is the ‘Writers Walk’, which showcases New Zealand’s literary culture. Apparently there are 11 pieces hidden along the waterfront – so far I’ve only managed to find three pieces!!

Above: One of the plaques from the ‘Writers Walk’ art installation. This one says: ‘I saw the Maori Jesus walking on Wellington Harbour. He wore blue dungarees. His beard and hair were long. His breath smelt of mussels and parade. When he smiled, it looked like the dawn’. This one is hidden behind Te Papa.

Escape from Wellington’s Traffic
As I’ve previously mentioned, crossing roads in Wellington can be tedious. After you press the button, it can take minutes before you’re allowed to cross, and jay walking can be risky sometimes!! Therefore, it’s always wonderful to escape the roads and stroll casually along the waterfront, safe in the knowledge that there’s at least twenty minutes of walking without a pedestrian crossing in sight.

NB – The crossings have this dull, monotonous beeping too whilst you wait to cross – horrid – and when it’s ready to cross the road, they make you jump into action with an incessant pulsing noise.

Coffee
There’s plenty of opportunity to grab a great coffee all over Wellington, but where better to enjoy it than in front of the ocean? Along the waterfront, you’re spoilt for choice with options including coffee carts, restaurants, small independent cafes and of course, Te Papa.

Cocktails
Head to Dockside for great cocktails. Having spent one sunny Saturday afternoon enjoying three or four, I would highly recommend trying the Passionfruit Mojito! There is great seating outside to enjoy warm weather and the menu looks pretty good too, if you get hungry.

Markets
There’s two on the waterfront – the Saturday morning one in the underground car park where you can buy all manner of arts and crafts, and the Sunday morning one behind Te Papa where you can buy your cheap fruit and veggies for the week and enjoy a snack or meal from a multitude of multi-cultural food carts, including Mexican, Indonesian, Italian, Chilean and Greek. Both are worth checking out, especially if you don’t want to spend extra dollar on fruit and veg in the supermarkets! Be sure to head to the Sunday market as early as possible to get the best produce!

NB – The juice cart at the Sunday market is great – try an apple and ginger juice for NZ$6. Yum!

And of course, the Ocean!
The main feature of the waterfront, the star attraction, you might say. There are tons of activities designed to get you out into the harbour if you want, including kayaking, paddle boarding, sail boat, the Dominican Post ferry and peddlos, for the less adventurous!

On a beautiful sunny day, the ocean sparkles like diamonds and attracts hundreds, if not thousands, down to the waterfront to enjoy the view across the bay towards Eastbourne and to drink coffee outside, people watch, find art, sample a cocktail… Sometimes the wildlife even comes out to play – I even spotted a stingray in the harbour the other day.

So, if you’re ever in Wellington, make it a priority to head to the waterfront! There’s something for everyone, whatever the weather.

Above: Wellington Waterfront with CBD behind.

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