Petra at night

‘How far that little candle throws its beams!’ – William Shakespeare.

In a previous post, I wrote about a side to Petra that threatened to spoil my entire visit to the ancient Rose City. However, putting the treatment of the working animals aside for a moment, I would like to point out that Petra truly is a beautiful place, worthy of its UNESCO World Heritage status and quite rightly a Wonder of the Ancient World.

And I did have an awesome experience there. My top tip if you’re ever visiting Petra? Make damn sure you book to go at night, as well as during the day.

Petra at Night is a vastly different experience to visiting during the day. The air is cooler, the animals have been taken home for the night and there is altogether a bit more magic in the air. As with all the best experiences, we didn’t plan to go to Petra at Night, but I am so thrilled that we added it to our itinerary and got to do this.

1,500 Flickering Candles*

*Statistic taken from Visit Petra.

The night is dark and reasonably cool around us. All around, we can hear the echo of voices and footsteps clattering off the great rock walls, that close over and around us, plunging upwards and disappearing into the black as the weak light given off by hundreds of candles struggles to permeate the darkness.

Further back up the path, the candles had given us cause to stop and spend a moment or two working out if they were real, or those little battery operated tea lights you can get. Closer inspection had revealed the candles to be real. Bright, flickering, dancing flames protected from breezes by flimsy paper lanterns. We’d been amazed – how long did it take to light so many? There are hundreds of them, leading us on into the night. They create the path that we are almost blindly following.

In the near darkness, it is difficult to gauge the size of the Siq, but you can feel how vast it is. Huge and mighty, as old as time. The air is still and balmy after the long hot day. There is a whiff of manure, sweat and dust on the air. People walk in front and behind us, some waving torch beams around. We stick to following the candles unaided by extra light. They are placed at intervals – some on the ground, others perched in crevasses and on ledges in the rock. There is more mystery to be had by placing our trust in the little yellow pools of dim light.

We walk for about forty minutes, coming very suddenly upon the Treasury. There is one tantalising, teasing glimpse of rose red rock hewn into ornate pillars, and then it is there in front of you, lit from below by the light of countless candles. The stone is golden in the dancing light, with deep shadows thrown up and around where the light can’t reach.

The area in front of the Treasury is filled with people milling around, many taking photographs, a few gazing up unhindered by technology, enthralled by the scene. I join the majority and snap endless images, getting down low to frame the scene and capture some of the magic. Eventually, I step back and turn my camera off. I sit cross legged on the dirt with the stench of animal urine stinging my nostrils and watch the show that is put on for our benefit, with drumming and stories about the Rose City told by ancient Bedouin.

When the show ends, and after we have drunk our fill of the Treasury lit by the flickering candles, once most of the other tourists have departed up the Siq path, we slowly make our way back towards the visitor centre. As we plunge into the Siq once more, we allow the near darkness to close around us and swallow us. We turn once, glancing back, getting a last glimpse, and then the Treasury has vanished from view. Just like that.

A Magical Experience

I cannot recommend visiting Petra at Night highly enough. With the animals away for the night, you can freely enjoy the wonder and majesty of this beautiful ancient city, and truly appreciate the splendor all around you. The candles add a magic and theatre to the entire evening and make for dramatic photos if you’re that way inclined.

We were extremely lucky that we happened to be there on an evening when the site was open to visit at night. As I mentioned at the beginning of the post, visiting Petra in the dark was not something we planned into our itinerary. But you can and you most definitely should!

Here’s how to ensure you don’t miss out and some top tips to get the most out of your Petra at Night experience.

• Depending where you look, Petra at Night runs every Monday, Tuesday and Thursday evenings, or every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings. Check beforehand and ensure you are there on one of the three evenings. The experience begins at 8.30pm.
• Tickets cost approximately 17JD (£17) and should be bought in advance. We got ours from our hotel reception, but they are also available at local tour agencies or at the visitor centre. Children under 10 go free.
• You also need to buy a valid day ticket at the same time – you can’t buy a night ticket alone. Day tickets to the site cost 50JD (£50.50) for one day, 55JD for two days or 60JD for three days. We bought the one day ticket due to time constraints, but I would definitely recommend taking two or three days to explore the city in greater depth and at a slower pace.
• This is an approximately 2km easy walk along a path which is sandy, concrete or paved depending on the point you’re at. On the way back, it has a slight uphill gradient.
• Taxis are usually waiting at the visitor centre should you wish to take a ride back into town – ours cost us 2JD. Alternatively, arrange transport with your accommodation, or walk – although be warned, it’s uphill back into town and quite a distance!
• You could bring a torch, although the candle light is wonderful and it’s more fun to walk along without any extra light. Bring water, a spare jumper just in case and a camera if you’re into photography. I’d recommend a tripod if you are so that your images aren’t blurry!
• Wear comfortable enclosed shoes and clothes that you don’t mind getting a bit dirty (sitting on the ground at the Treasury made my trousers quite dusty!).

Above all, enjoy yourself. It is amazing!

Don’t forget to put away your camera, take some time to admire and absorb everything that is going on around you, breathe in the air, gaze up at the stars, wonder at how long it takes to light all those candles and just generally soak up the atmosphere. And then go home, sleep well and prepare for the following day, when no doubt you’ll be exploring the Rose City in the daylight hours!