Innsbruck: Three tales and my top tips

‘Beauty in things exists in the mind which contemplates them.’ – David Hume.

Innsbruck. A small city at the heart of the Alps that stole my heart. Here, I tell three tales from my time in this beautiful part of the world, and share three top tips to enjoying your time here.

The River Inn

The River Inn flows fast and deep. The roiling water is murky, almost oily. Logs are being carried rapidly on the current, some as big as tree trunks, sweeping past and out of sight. Its dark waters are at odds with the cheerfully bright day. The river appears almost malevolent against a back drop of blue skies, colourfully painted buildings and the gleaming mountains that overshadow the city on both sides.

With such a characterful river at the heart of the city, it makes sense that the name Innsbruck translates as ‘the bridge over the Inn’. Indeed, there are several spanning the dirty waters, carrying foot passengers, vehicles and the funicular railway over the river.

I walk the banks of the Inn on both sides during my stay. My hotel is outside of the Old Town and to reach it, the most pleasant walk is along the footpaths that line the river. I spy lovers kissing, loners sitting cross legged on the river wall reading and groups of friends on benches chatting and laughing. The Inn feels like an important part of the small city, a focal point. People congregate here to enjoy the sunshine and bask in the summer warmth.

Tip One – Bring warm clothes

If you want to head up into the mountains around Innsbruck (and why wouldn’t you?!), then bring some warm clothing. Even in June, when I visited, the temperature at 2,300m above sea level was only about thirteen degrees. That was a seventeen degree drop from the balmy temperatures I was enjoying in the city centre!

Don’t forget, the weather on the mountain tops is more changeable and unpredictable too. Bring a spare jumper, a rain mac and some sturdy boots to explore the alpine regions and enjoy them properly!

On Top of the World in the Nordkettes

The wind slaps me across the face and takes my breath away.

I shiver and quickly open my bag to retrieve my fleece and windproof rain mac. After donning both, I head to the first viewpoint and gaze down over the city of Innsbruck, spread out like a spiders web below.

I’m at 2,300 metres above sea level and it’s an amazing feeling. It has been a while since I was last atop a mountain, and being here now makes me feel overpowering joy. I want to gambol around, but restrain myself as a group of tourists stroll sedately past.

Just a little over the ridge and I’m confronted with another spectacular vista. The view in every direction is divine. At this height, the terrain seems bleak and uninhabitable, hostile even, but I know that somewhere out there ibex are clinging to the mountainsides and all sorts of other wildlife are picking an existence in this harsh environment. Birds float overhead, with the low dark clouds. I could almost drift off with them, join them and float away.

We’re above the tree line. Even though it’s June, thick banks of snow still cover the ground, making walking treacherous in some places. I stay as long as I can, sitting in silence to soak up the atmosphere and the beauty that surrounds me. A quote springs to mind: ‘Put yourself in the way of beauty’. Well, I’ve certainly done that today.

Tip Two – Get the Innsbruck Card

I really cannot recommend this highly enough. Austria is an expensive country, and by buying this pass you’ll save yourself a ton of money. There is so much to see, visit and explore in Innsbruck that I can guarantee you’ll more than get your money back. I bought the 48 hour pass which cost me €50.

During my stay, I went on the Nordkette cable car (€36,50) and the Patscherkofelbahn cable car (€23,50). I also visited the Alpine Zoo (€11), the City Tower (€4,50), the Bergisel Ski Jump (€9,50), did the Sightseer Innsbruck tour bus (€17) and also used public transport. This totals €102 altogether. The two cable car rides alone total €60. I made a saving of €52 by buying the Innsbruck 48 Hour Pass. Unbeatable value!

The Sweltering City

I seek out the quietest alleys and side streets, ducking down any narrow entrance that takes me away from the main thoroughfare. The Old City sweats in the mid-summer heat as I wander aimlessly, soaking up the city’s atmosphere. I’ve spent barely 48 hours here and yet Innsbruck has already won my heart.

The old buildings lean and tip forwards, crooked and unruly. Gold leaf gleams on facades. Frescoes and baroque stuccoes bring joy and colour to the streets. Each structure has a unique character, a personality. There are stories here, locked away in the wood and stone and tiles of these old buildings.

Heavy drops of warm rain leak from the sky. The air is muggy, unbearably close. Thunder rumbles menacingly in the distance as the skies darken threateningly. The heavens open. I take cover under the arches along the main street and wait it out. The rain washes away some of the humidity and sweeps away the fatigue that heat brings. It passes quickly, a brief summer storm, and the world slowly comes back to life.

Rejuvenated, the cafes once more buzz, the streets slowly fill up and the queues at the gelato stands grow long. I buy a small cup of lemon sorbet and sit to enjoy my treat, taking a break while I decide where to go next. A narrow, quiet looking street opposite my bench beckons me. I finish the sorbet, discard the rubbish and take off, plunging once more into the heart of the city. Lost again.

Tip Three – Stay in cheap(er) accommodation

For me, staying in Innsbruck was one of those occasions when I spent less on accommodation. It just made sense! You do not need to stay in the city centre to enjoy your time here. Innsbruck is such a small city that it’s easy to walk from A to B, or there is a good network for buses if required. I stayed in a hotel outside of the city centre which was much cheaper than one in the Old Town. My two night stay at Garni – Technikerhaus only cost £75, as opposed to a two night stay in some of the city centre hotels, most of which cost upwards of £150.

A bonus top tip if you want to save money in Austria is to visit Spar convenience stores to buy food. There was a surprisingly comprehensive selection of salads, snacks, sandwiches and even sushi and dumplings on offer in the Spars I visited. On one occasion, I bought vegetarian gyoza and a lentil salad with a soy dressing for €6. Such good value for money and it tasted delicious!

Postscript:
Anyone who knows me well knows just exactly how much I love mountains and getting outside exploring. You can read more about my love of mountains here.