Wellington On A Good Day
‘Sunshine is a welcome thing. It brings a lot of brightness.’ – Jimmie Davis.
When the skies are big and bright over the city, and the sun is
brilliant overhead, and the sea is sparkling and smooth as a millpond, you know
it’s a good day. Not just any good day. This is Wellington on a good day. The
notorious winds drop to a light breeze that barely ruffles your hair as you
stroll along the waterfront. The water to your left has barely a ripple on it,
not a white crested wave in sight. The city turns blue and shiny and everything
comes to life.
The day feels full of possibilities and a cheerful optimism pervades
the city. Spring has arrived, and the warm sunshine is welcomed after rain and
wind. People creep back into the beer gardens and the parks. In the UK, the
first sun after winter is cause to strip off and get burnt. This being New
Zealand, however, there will be no lobsters at the end of the day. These
sensible Kiwis know the rules about applying sunscreen and do so diligently. We
follow their example, usually… When in Rome and all that.
the city. Spring has arrived, and the warm sunshine is welcomed after rain and
wind. People creep back into the beer gardens and the parks. In the UK, the
first sun after winter is cause to strip off and get burnt. This being New
Zealand, however, there will be no lobsters at the end of the day. These
sensible Kiwis know the rules about applying sunscreen and do so diligently. We
follow their example, usually… When in Rome and all that.
It is days like this one that make you love Wellington. You forget
that it is a small city, that can sometimes feel a bit claustrophobic and even,
dare I say it out loud, boring. Wellington has the reputation of being ‘the
coolest little capital in the world’ and it’s hard to argue with that on a good
day. Wellington on a good day has an energy, a frisson that helps you to
forget, momentarily, any issues you may have with the city, such as my issue
with the incessant, exhausting wind. Suddenly, there is potential around every
corner, and an urge to take full advantage of what is on offer.
that it is a small city, that can sometimes feel a bit claustrophobic and even,
dare I say it out loud, boring. Wellington has the reputation of being ‘the
coolest little capital in the world’ and it’s hard to argue with that on a good
day. Wellington on a good day has an energy, a frisson that helps you to
forget, momentarily, any issues you may have with the city, such as my issue
with the incessant, exhausting wind. Suddenly, there is potential around every
corner, and an urge to take full advantage of what is on offer.
Our kayaks were pushed off the pontoon and rode low on the glassy
water. We caused barely a ripple as we slid almost silently past pedestrians
walking along the waterfront, our paddles sending cool droplets of water over
us from time to time. To our right, dark in shadow, we could see under the
wharf, the water stretching far back under the TSB Arena foundations. I inched
underneath the footpath and ducked below a low-slung pipe, out of the sunlight.
The space was dark and dingy and I beat a hasty retreat, my adventurous side
quailing at the thought of rats or worse.
water. We caused barely a ripple as we slid almost silently past pedestrians
walking along the waterfront, our paddles sending cool droplets of water over
us from time to time. To our right, dark in shadow, we could see under the
wharf, the water stretching far back under the TSB Arena foundations. I inched
underneath the footpath and ducked below a low-slung pipe, out of the sunlight.
The space was dark and dingy and I beat a hasty retreat, my adventurous side
quailing at the thought of rats or worse.
We initially struck out in the direction of Te Papa and turned out
towards the marina once we reached the footbridge that spanned the water where
it bottlenecks into the boat lagoon. We glided easily across the harbour and
stuck close to the edge of the marina, commenting on the shags that basked in
the sunshine, their wings spread out to dry in the golden warmth. We startled
them as we approached and they shuffled uneasily, watching us suspiciously
until we passed. One spooked and flapped away slowly, inelegant and clumsy.
towards the marina once we reached the footbridge that spanned the water where
it bottlenecks into the boat lagoon. We glided easily across the harbour and
stuck close to the edge of the marina, commenting on the shags that basked in
the sunshine, their wings spread out to dry in the golden warmth. We startled
them as we approached and they shuffled uneasily, watching us suspiciously
until we passed. One spooked and flapped away slowly, inelegant and clumsy.
The Carter Fountain, situated just off Oriental Beach, spouted water skywards,16m high, and the sunshine caused rainbows that hung in the damp
air around it where the spray reflected the light. We looped it, feeling the
mist blow gently back onto us as we paddled past.
air around it where the spray reflected the light. We looped it, feeling the
mist blow gently back onto us as we paddled past.
A light breeze sprang up as we inched back across the harbour, making
for the waterfront once again. The smooth surface of the water was rippled and
torn somewhat by a gentle wind, barely strong enough to make a difference to
our progress or the general temperature of the afternoon. It was no Wellington
wind yet. No buffeting gusts that threaten to fling you down and no
breath-taking blasts of icy air that take your hair and toss it every which
way, with wild abandon, or tug at your clothes as if trying to rip them from
your very back.
for the waterfront once again. The smooth surface of the water was rippled and
torn somewhat by a gentle wind, barely strong enough to make a difference to
our progress or the general temperature of the afternoon. It was no Wellington
wind yet. No buffeting gusts that threaten to fling you down and no
breath-taking blasts of icy air that take your hair and toss it every which
way, with wild abandon, or tug at your clothes as if trying to rip them from
your very back.
From our low vantage point in the sea, we could take time to admire
the city’s architecture from a distance. The kayaks offered a viewpoint that we
hadn’t had before – here, the concentration of high rise buildings in the CBD
looked taller than normal, reflecting the glare of the sun in thousands of
panes of glass, almost blinding. Our eyes were lifted to the bush covered
slopes beyond, where on wild days the trees sway, a sea of foliage lashing and
thrashing in the gales. The city drapes itself amongst the bush, clusters of
houses cloaking the green hillsides, many of them clinging precariously on to
the steeper inclines.
the city’s architecture from a distance. The kayaks offered a viewpoint that we
hadn’t had before – here, the concentration of high rise buildings in the CBD
looked taller than normal, reflecting the glare of the sun in thousands of
panes of glass, almost blinding. Our eyes were lifted to the bush covered
slopes beyond, where on wild days the trees sway, a sea of foliage lashing and
thrashing in the gales. The city drapes itself amongst the bush, clusters of
houses cloaking the green hillsides, many of them clinging precariously on to
the steeper inclines.
We turned our course in the direction of home, following the
waterfront once more, sticking close to shore, the open water behind us. The
water was shattered by our paddles, the sparkling drops looking like a million
glittering diamonds.
waterfront once more, sticking close to shore, the open water behind us. The
water was shattered by our paddles, the sparkling drops looking like a million
glittering diamonds.
All too soon, we were landing the kayaks and clambering to our feet, climbing
off the pontoon. My shorts clung to my legs, soaked. We walked along the
waterfront now, to meet friends and sit in the sun and enjoy some drinks. Time
to relax after kayaking. Time to enjoy the heat of the day. Time to apply
sunscreen… When in Rome, and all that.
off the pontoon. My shorts clung to my legs, soaked. We walked along the
waterfront now, to meet friends and sit in the sun and enjoy some drinks. Time
to relax after kayaking. Time to enjoy the heat of the day. Time to apply
sunscreen… When in Rome, and all that.
PS:
Obviously, applying sunscreen after exposing yourself to more than an hour of New
Zealand sunshine is not the best idea. My legs were burnt red-raw and I now
have some truly amazing tan lines – the fronts of my legs have blocks of red
turning brown and the backs and sides are still milky white. Fabulous!! I
really should have listened to Baz Luhrmann and trusted him on the sunscreen.
My legs are ridiculous!!
Obviously, applying sunscreen after exposing yourself to more than an hour of New
Zealand sunshine is not the best idea. My legs were burnt red-raw and I now
have some truly amazing tan lines – the fronts of my legs have blocks of red
turning brown and the backs and sides are still milky white. Fabulous!! I
really should have listened to Baz Luhrmann and trusted him on the sunscreen.
My legs are ridiculous!!
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