How The Mind Wanders... - Wales: This Country Shouldn't Be Overlooked

‘Cymru am byth!’ (Wales Forever!) – Aeneas Middleton.

A Revised Guide

Added 17th February 2019

I first wrote this guide back in 2015, while I was living in New Zealand. Now, four years on, I’ve revised this guide to make it easier for visitors to Wales to pick and choose activities they’d like to do.

The guide is split into different categories, with recommendations on places to go and different areas best suited to activities that people may enjoy. There’s a little something for everyone, so have a read through and begin planning your trip to Wales today!

Please note – this list is not exhaustive!

Scant Attention

Unfortunately, Wales is often overlooked by visitors to the UK. Scotland, Ireland and England tend to get the glory. Invariably, Wales is added to a trip as a side note, or worse, is ignored all together.

This is a real shame. Wales has so much to offer to visitors. It’s a simply beautiful country, with some incredible things to be experienced if people take the time to seek them out. There’s a thriving food scene, some wonderful walking and loads of outdoor activities to participate in. If you prefer things a bit more off beat, then you should visit Llanwrtyd Wells and try Bog Snorkelling or the Real Ale Wobble.

There is something for everyone in Wales. Don’t just visit Wales as an aside. Dedicate some proper time to the principality and I guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Beaches

Amroth and Marros

These two beaches sit almost side by side, but couldn’t really be more different. I’ve put them together due to their proximity, but will split them out to describe them.

Marros is a walk to get to. Prepare for a thirty minute walk down to the beach. It’s probably forty or so back up afterwards due to the pretty solid climb to the top of the cliffs. This beach is long, windswept, remote and almost always deadly quiet. You’ll be able to find a secluded spot here no matter the season or the weather, probably because a lot of people can’t be bothered with the walk! Explore the rock pools at low tide, walk the length of the beach and take a dip. Top tip: take a picnic and enjoy a day in near solitude here.

Amroth is also a quiet beach, just around the coast from Marros. However, it backs onto a small road and the village of Amroth itself. It’s perfect if you want a proper beach stroll, followed by a retreat indoors to enjoy a bite to eat and a hot drink. I enjoy visiting this beach best during winter, at low tide. A walk at Amroth will blow away the cobwebs entirely and it’s super easy to warm up afterwards!

Abercastle

A tiny haven and harbour on the Pembrokeshire coast. It’s perfect for launching kayaks and boats, since the inlet is so sheltered. If you’re a walker, then pause here and take a breather as you hike the coastal path.

Despite being a small beach, I really enjoyed the hour or so I spent here when we spent a couple of days hiking the coastal path. It was the perfect pit stop and I’d recommend including this on your walking itinerary for a sit down and relax along the way.

Mwnt

Mwnt has a beautiful sandy beach, surrounded on all sides by cliffs, which ensures it remains pretty sheltered. I like Mwnt because there is more on offer than just the beach.

As well as swimming and sunbathing, you can take a walk along the cliff path or scramble up Foel y Mwnt itself for spectacular views across the Irish Sea. If you’re lucky, you may even spot dolphins! On your way back down, pause and take in the small church there, which is truly beautiful and very peaceful.

During summer, there is a small shop that sells classic seaside wares, such as ice creams, inflatables and buckets and spades. If you want somewhere to stay reasonably close by, check out the Cliff Hotel and Spa. Enjoy the spa facilities there to really round off your trip nicely! When I visited, it cost £10 for three hours.

Tenby

One of the more famous seaside towns in Wales, with good reason. Tenby has a beautiful big beach and the town itself is great to explore, with some independent shops and nice places to eat.

I would recommend Tenby if you want a beach that is a little less remote, with amenities closer to hand. It would be good for families and holiday makers who want to stay in a town with easy access to the ocean, but options to explore inland as well on day trips.

Ynyslas and Borth

Another famous beach in Wales, further north than the others I’ve listed above. Ynyslas has an incredible sand dune ecosystem, while Borth has a petrified forest that is uncovered at low tide.

Head there to explore these interesting natural occurrences. It’s a prime spot for school field trips for these two very reasons and its proximity to Aberystwyth. It’s also a great beach for dog walking, with huge open spaces. Just be aware during bird breeding and nesting seasons and keep an eye on your pet, obviously!

Food

Wales is famous for a few different types of food. I’ve listed some below, and included potential recipes for you to try!

Laverbread

Laverbread is made from edible seaweed and, despite how it looks, is delicious! Most big stores should sell laverbread. You’ll probably find it in smaller touristy shops too, that specialise in Welsh goods and produce.

There are heaps of recipes that you can incorporate laverbread into, but I like it best if you keep it simple. When I used to work as a sous chef, we did a breakfast dish with laverbread.

A recipe for laverbread at breakfast.
Cut a couple of thick slices from some good bread, such as a farmhouse white loaf. Toast the bread, then spread over with some really good butter and top with your laverbread. Top with some crispy cooked bacon or a couple of fried eggs (keep the yolks runny) and enjoy! A simple, but delicious, breakfast!

Cawl

Cawl is such a good winter warmer. It is a traditional Welsh stew, typically made with lamb and including leeks and potatoes in a rich broth. Obviously, being a vegetarian, I’m not a fan of the lamb, but it’s simple enough to make a tasty veggie version.

Cawl is usually served with chunky bread and cheese, as a simple, cheap and delicious lunch. Try this veggie version and let it warm your cockles!

A vegetarian version of cawl
Grab some root vegetables (potatoes, parsnips, turnips, swedes and carrots all work well) and chop into small chunks. Dice an onion and slice a leek. Fry off your root veg and then add the leek and onion with some salt, pepper and some really good quality veggie stock. Allow everything to cook down on a low heat. Add water and simmer until the vegetables are cooked through. The liquid should thicken slightly. Taste and season accordingly. Eat with nice bread and some mature Cheddar.

Welsh Cakes

Imagine little cakes flavoured with cinnamon and raisins, griddled on a hot plate. They’re a little like scones, but more flavoursome and denser, flatter, due to the difference in cooking method. Enjoy them hot with a sprinkle of sugar over the top, or cold with butter.

The perfect easy Welsh cakes
Ingredients
225g/8oz self-raising flour, sieved
110g/4oz salted butter
1 free-range egg
handful of sultanas
milk, if needed
85g/3oz caster sugar
extra butter, for greasing

Method
Rub the fat into the sieved flour to make breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, dried fruit and then the egg. Mix to combine, then form a ball of dough, using a splash of milk if needed.
Roll out the pastry until it’s about as thick as an iPhone (random point of reference, but most people will know what I mean by this!) and cut into rounds. For a little romantic treat, why not use a heart-shaped cutter?
Use a heavy bottomed frying pan for cooking. Rub it with butter and wipe the excess away. Put it on to a direct heat and wait until it heats up, place the Welsh cakes on the griddle, turning once. They need about 2–3 minutes each side. Each side needs to be caramel brown before turning. Remove from the pan and dust with caster sugar while still warm.

Bara Brith

This dense, fruity cake is usually flavoured with tea and dried fruit. It’s often served in a traditional Welsh afternoon tea, sliced and spread with butter.

The word ‘bara’ means bread in English, and ‘brith’ means speckled. The literal translation is therefore ‘speckled bread’, referring to the currants, sultanas and other dried fruits within the loaf.

An easy Bara Brith recipe
BBC Good Food always has great recipes and this Bara Brith recipe is easy to follow. Serve your Bara Brith to guests with tea and perhaps some of those Welsh cakes as well! Or, keep it all for yourself if you’d rather…

Eating Out

Since I have not eaten out much in Wales, I asked for recommendations from family and friends. The following list has been compiled based on what they suggested. There is a mix of dining here and options from right across the country. If you have any recommendations, feel free to leave a comment!

Hiking

There is an abundance of excellent hiking and walking throughout Wales, not least because there are three beautiful national parks to explore. The Brecon Beacons, Snowdonia and the Pembroke Coast National Park all offer a range of hiking, from easy strolls to multi-day walks.

The ultimate hiking challenge is the Wales Coast Path, running from Chester in the north to Chepstow in the south. Alternatively, turn inland and find hiking all over the country. Don’t forget to uncover the Cambrian Mountains, where a host of walks will let you enjoy the heartland of this beautiful country.

Some of my favourite hikes include:

Llyn y Fan Fawr – a short hike up to this lake following a wide, stone path. Legend tells of a Lady of the Lake, although not associated with King Arthur. Circle the lake to climb Fan Brycheiniog for views across Powys and Carmarthenshire.
Snowdon – there are several paths to the top. I hiked the Pyg track up and the Llanberis track down, and our walk took approximately seven hours altogether. The views are spectacular and sweeping from the summit.
Drygarn Fawr – Climb up through forestry from Abergwesyn Valley and, once you’ve pinpointed the trig point on the horizon, hike across moorland to reach your goal. There are fantastic views across Powys from this 645m summit.
Pembrokeshire Coastal Path – Do the whole path in one go or split it out into several sections. I walked from Strumble Head to Trefin and there are some beautiful views along this part of the path.
Pen y Fan – One of Wales’ most famous mountain climbs, and the highest peak in the south of the UK. A relatively easy climb, with well marked paths and parking close to the beginning of the track. It can get busy, so go early or choose a slightly less sunny, midweek day if possible.

Other walks you could do include the Wye Valley Walk, hiking through the Black Mountains or you could explore Offa’s Dyke Path, a multi-day hike that runs along the border between England and Wales.

Outdoor Activities

Kayaking and Canoeing

I would recommend sea kayaking off the Pembrokeshire coast. It’s about as close to nature you can get without getting soaked. Your kayak can glide almost silently through the water, enabling you to get up close and personal with nature. In addition, your kayak is agile and able enough to explore caves and get super close to the shoreline. Sea kayaking gives you a unique perspective of the Welsh coast.

Whenever I’ve been, I went with Preseli Venture. They are an expert and professional company, with amazing guides and well organised excursions.

If sea kayaking isn’t your thing, why not try canoeing down the River Wye instead? Hire a canoe from Symonds Yat and head out for two or three hours. It’s the perfect way to explore this famous Welsh river and have fun while exercising.

Boat Trips

It’s possible to take boat trips right along the Welsh coast. I can personally recommend a trip out and around Ramsey and Skomer Islands, but there are plenty of other options all around Wales, no matter where your trip has taken you.

There is a chance you’ll see seals and dolphins, as well as countless sea birds, including puffins if you’re lucky! Depending on what you’re after, try a RHIB excursion, or keep it more sedate with a bigger vessel.

Zip Lining

I’ve heard wonderful things about the zip lining that is available in Snowdonia. People have described it to be ‘as close to free flight as it’s possible for humans to get’ and used many superlatives and hyperboles when telling me about the experience. As a result, I’m including it in this post as one of those ‘must-do’ outdoor activities that is available in Wales.

Check out Zip World’s website and decide for yourself if this could be your next big adventure!

Mountain Biking

There are plenty of places and opportunities to go mountain biking across Wales. If you’re a confident biker, and have great map reading skills, why not take yourself off for an adventure in the Cambrian Mountains?

If you’d prefer to follow well-marked trails and interact with other bikers, then you could do worse than head to one of the many bike centres across Wales for an adrenaline filled day.

Horse Riding

There are countless places to horse ride across Wales. Anyone who has any interest in horses should take a few hours to trek across some of the most beautiful countryside in the world. Take your pick from the Cambrian heartland, the coast and beaches or the more rugged north. You won’t be disappointed, wherever you end up!

Unusual, Quirky Activities

My home town, Llanwrtyd Wells, is the hub of many strange and whacky events in Wales. Llanwrtyd the self-styled smallest town in Britain, and makes most of its dollar in the tourism trade. Make sure you include a visit on any Welsh trip itinerary, particularly if you’d like to participate in a more unusual activity!

Check out Green Events for a full list of weird sports you can partake in during your visit to Llanwrtyd!

Bog Snorkelling

Taking place every August bank holiday, bog snorkelling was the brain child of Gordon Green. A Llanwrtyd Wells legend, he also helped invent the Man vs. Horse Marathon that you can read about below.

The concept is fairly simple. You don a snorkel and flippers and the person who swims two lengths of a trench cut into a peat bog wins. It’s a popular pass time for hen and stag parties and Llanwrtyd is the home of the World Championships.

Man vs. Horse Marathon

Another invention of Gordon Green’s, this famous marathon runs annually in June. Believe it or not, humans have beaten the horses twice in the 38 years this event has run.

If you’re a runner, you should pop this 22.5 multi terrain marathon on your ‘to-do’ list asap. Could you beat a horse? For riders, this is the perfect way to experience some of Mid Wales’ finest scenery and potentially take the glory of winning the Man vs. Horse Marathon!

Mid Wales Beer Festival

An annual event that takes place every November. The Beer Festival revolves around two weekends, each with an event. The first weekend is the Real Ale Wobble. Bikers come from all over the UK and from further abroad to take part – cycle, drink, cycle, drink, you get the picture. This is usually the busier and more popular weekend, with the four local pubs doing great business, locals and visitors alike out in force. The second weekend hosts the Real Ale Ramble, an altogether more laid-back affair, with a slightly older target audience.

Whether you’re a walker, a biker or just a real ale fan, don’t miss Llanwrtyd’s Beer Festival. It’s always a fun weekend. Even if you’re not participating in the ramble or the wobble, there’s heaps to do in and around town during the day before you hit the pubs in the evening for a good time. Check out this website for info on places to eat and accommodation, as well as activities and fun things to do in the local area. One of my personal favourite activities in Llanwrtyd is to take a stroll down the Dolycoed.

Natural Places of Beauty

Pistyll Rhaeadr

Visiting the highest single drop waterfall in the UK is listed as one of the top 100 things to do in Wales before you die. The waterfall is 240ft high and pretty spectacular. A worthy addition to the list!

This is a good place for a family day out. Pack a picnic or eat at the cafe at the bottom of the waterfall. After you’ve admired the falls from below, take the short but strenuous climb to the top and gaze down from above, taking in the views.

A word of warning – on a sunny day or during peak times, the traffic to the falls is pretty horrendous. It’s a single lane road and you may find yourself reversing quite a bit to let cars by, and vice versa! Plan to go earlier to avoid the traffic or go midweek outside of school holidays if you can!

Elan Valley

Visiting Elan Valley is perfect if you have people with you who are less mobile, since you can see a lot of what is on offer from the car. You can drive this beautiful scenic route between all the dams and never get out of your vehicle if you wish!

However, if you are up for a bit more of an adventure, then you should definitely stop at some of the stunning locations along the way. There’s heaps of history to learn about, some pretty incredible vistas and you can have a bite to eat and a cup of tea at the visitor centre.

Lengthen your trip and go off the main route to see the beautiful Claerwen Reservoir. Alternatively, if you want to make a full day of it, don’t do the loop road from and to Rhayader. Instead, after you’ve driven the reservoirs, head west towards Cwmystwyth and go to check out Devil’s Bridge Falls.

Devil’s Bridge Falls

To be explored and admired either as an extension to your day out through Elan Valley, or on their own. In their own right, these falls are beautiful and worth stopping off to see. It would be easy to go to Devil’s Bridge as a side trip from Aberystwyth or in addition to an adventure when you go and find Strata Florida Abbey.

Be aware that there’s a small fee to access the falls – from £1-£4 depending on the season, time and access you wish to have. There are tea rooms and a gift shop, and two walks to choose from. For more info, check out their website.

If you’re a bit of train geek, then the perfect day out might be to take the Vale of Rheidol Steam Railway from Aberystwyth to the falls, spend some time there exploring and then head back to Aberystwyth for some fish and chips on the beach.

Culture

Hay-on-Wye

Right on the border between Wales and England, Hay is a book worms paradise and well worth visiting. The town is famous for its annual literary festival and is home to countless second hand book stores.

The festival itself pulls in big names every year, including comics, politicians, authors and everyone in between! Make sure you book your tickets early to avoid disappointment. I’ve been to the festival once and saw a couple of shows, both of which were excellent.

Hay is particularly lovely around Christmas time. Before I moved away from Wales, it had almost become tradition for me to visit during the festive season. The small independent shops were the perfect places to find lovely presents for friends and family and invariably there was mulled wine or mince pies on offer! The lights twinkle, there is an air of warmth and promise and some great places to take a breather should you need one!

St Davids

St Davids is the smallest city in the UK and has some interesting history behind it. It’s impossible to visit without going to explore the cathedral and learning about the place where Wales’ patron saint, St David, is buried.

There is a great deal of history to uncover here. You can spend an entire day learning about St David and the role he had in and around the area. Alternatively, if all that history tires you out, you can enjoy a browse through the local independent shops or take a break in one of the many cafes and pubs available.

Royal Welsh Agricultural Show, Builth Wells

Farming and agriculture play a huge and important role in the Welsh economy. If you’re dying to learn more about one of Wales’ primary industries, then book a ticket to the Royal Welsh Show now.

Held annually in Builth Wells, this impressive show is a mecca for anyone interested in horse riding, showing, tractors, fine foods, alcohol, shearing or pretty much anything to do with agriculture. It’s a long day out, but take plenty of pit stops and you should have a great time!

It’s worth noting that this yearly event attracts a huge number of people to what is a relatively small town. Builth is not really designed to cope with this massive influx, so remember to be patient, get a park and ride if necessary and make sure you arrive early to try to avoid traffic jams and massive crowds. That said, it really is the best place to learn about the culture of farming in Wales, so enjoy!

Cities and Towns

Cardiff

The Welsh capital. Excellent for shopping, nights out, eating out, seeing a show or a play or generally enjoying some city life.

Like most major cities in the UK, Cardiff has something for everyone. There are the general chain stores, but also some cute alleys and one-off shops waiting to be discovered and explored. There’s a castle you can visit. Spend a night there and let your hair down in one of the many bars or clubs. There is plenty to offer.

Aberaeron

This pretty seaside town is centred around a small harbour. The town is full of Georgian character and has numerous brightly painted houses. It’s picture perfect and a fantastic backdrop if you’re all about the ‘gram!

I’d recommend a stroll around the harbour front, before you take in the sea views and have a quick walk along the beach. When you come back into town, grab a snack and take a break at one of the many excellent cafes on offer. If it’s raining, check out the small aquarium that provides fascinating insight into the marine life in Cardigan Bay.

Aberystwyth

Aberystwyth feels cut off from the rest of Wales. Pressed up between the sea and the mountains, it has a slightly remote feel about it. However, it provides the perfect starting point for exploring Wales’ rugged west coast, and should not be overlooked.

There is plenty to see and do here though, not least a quick walk along the beach. Take the Aberystwyth Cliff Railway up Constitution Hill for great sweeping views across the town. It currently holds the title as Britain’s longest funicular railway.

Stroll along the mile long Victorian promenade or explore the oldest pier in Wales. Alternatively, head down to the beach at dusk to experience a wonder of the natural world – a huge starling murmuration which I’ve known people to be in raptures over.

Take a road trip!

The best way to explore Wales is probably by car. There are some stunning stretches of road to explore across the country, including the Elan Valley road I’ve written about above. Alternatively, join a few scenic routes together to drive the length and breadth of the country.

Other recommendations include the Llyn Brianne drive from Llanwrtyd to Llandovery, the Llanidloes to Machynlleth road via Dylife or the back roads from Aberystwyth through to Tregaron.

For photographic inspiration that’ll have you longing to visit Llyn Brianne, why not check out this video, put together by the talented Chris Prichard?

A Beginning

This revised guide is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to things that Wales has to offer. Use it as a starting point for planning your trip, then dive even deeper and build the perfect holiday for you in this beautiful and exciting country.

I hope you come away from exploring Wales as much in love as I am. I hope you go back time and time again to fully discover everything that this magical and mysterious land has to offer. Above all, I hope this guide encourages people to add Wales to their UK itinerary not as an afterthought, but as the main focus of their trip.

Hiraeth. A longing for one’s homeland, but it is not mere homesickness. It’s an expression of the bond one feels with one’s home country when one is away from it.

Wales: Why This Country Shouldn’t Be Overlooked

A Revised Guide