Sandwood Bay: Visiting Scotland’s most wild, beautiful beach

‘Dance with the waves, move with the sea, let the rhythm of the water set your soul free.’ – Christy Ann Martine.

In search of adventure…

Take the turning onto the B801 at Rhiconich and take the road west. You’re aiming for Blairmore, a tiny village nestled on the knuckle of the very north-western most corner of Scotland. While the village itself may seem slightly unremarkable, it is the starting off point for the walk to Sandwood Bay, reputedly the most beautiful beach in Britain. A strong claim to fame.

And that is how I find myself in Blairmore bright and early that sunny morning in mid-September, filling up my water bottles, changing into hiking boots and optimistically packing a towel and swimming costume in case I want to swim when I finally reach the fabled beach.

The walk to and from Sandwood Bay Beach

It is a four mile hike to reach Sandwood Bay Beach from the car park, and four miles back again afterwards. It does seem like an effort, but the reward makes it worth it. And the hike itself isn’t tricky or technical or even that exciting. If I’m being really honest, I actually get slightly bored on the walk. I never normally hike with headphones in, but on the way back I plug into my Spotify and listen to some music to gee me along.

All in all, it’s an easy walk along a well-defined path that dissects undulating moorland, passing several small lochs along the way. On a pleasant day, like the day I hike it, you can see for miles in all directions. You may even spot Cape Wrath lighthouse in the distance if you’ve got sharp enough eyes.

Part One: Blairmore Car Park to Loch Na Gainimh

From the car park, take the path on the left side of the road. You’ll go past a cottage on your right with a Shetland pony in the field outside, and go through a wooden gate. There’s a sign that tells you about Sandwood Bay Beach. It’s all very clearly marked, so it’s impossible to miss. The first part of the walk is a gentle uphill incline along a wide track. You’ll go past the first loch of the walk on your right. There are also great views back across the coast behind you.

Eventually, the track narrows to a path and becomes rockier, until you reach the edge of Loch Na Gainimh. Here, you’ll need to cross the narrow outlet from the loch. When I walk the track, this is a trickle. However, I imagine when there’s more rain this may be more of a gushing stream. Either way, be prepared to potentially get damp feet, or bring waterproof boots!

Part Two: Loch Na Gainimh to Loch a’ Mhuilinn

Continue along the stony path past the Loch Na Gainimh outlet stream. At this point, there’s a bit of a short cut you could take on a narrower path. It would cut off the slightly annoying switch back you can see on the map below (bottom right, where another path joins the main one you’re walking on). Past Loch Na Gainimh, the path narrows still further. While it is still easy to follow, it definitely becomes more of a hiking track. There’s even a spot for cyclists to leave their bikes! Continue slightly downhill towards Loch a’ Mhuilinn.

Part Three: Loch a’ Mhuilinn to Loch Clais Nan Coinneal

Follow the path as it edges around Loch a’ Mhuilinn. You may get wet feet again here, if the water is up! However, I manage to avoid it when I do the walk. It’s a nice loch, with a narrow sandy beach if you want somewhere to stop and take a rest. As you leave Loch a’ Mhuilinn behind, you track uphill again slightly, ever undulating in the highland landscape. Now, the path wraps slowly around the hill that is currently blocking your view of the ocean, and keeps fairly level until you reach Loch Clais Nan Coinneal.

Part Four: Loch Clais Nan Coinneal to Sandwood Bay Beach

With Loch Clais Nan Coinneal on your right, you’ll see ahead that the path turns left around the hill and disappears. To your right, you’ll spot the ruined Sandwood Bay Cottage. The dwelling is situated between the beach and Loch Sandwood. Loch Sandwood is the large body of dark water you’ll also see to the right. The cottage is said to haunted by the ghost of a bearded old sailor. There have been several reported sightings – you can read more in this article from The Scotsman!

Finally, you’ll turn the corner and Sandwood Bay Beach will be presented to you, in all its glory. Take the path downhill to the shoreline, through rolling sand dunes. I recommend the removal of boots as soon as you meet the dunes! On the return walk, this part of the path is the only true ‘steep’ uphill climb, before you repeat the walk you’ve already completed, just in reverse!

Arrival at Sandwood Bay Beach

The first thing to do upon arrival is to remove your hiking boots or trainers. The sand is pale yellow, almost white, and it feels wonderful underfoot after miles of tramping in hot shoes. On the day I visit, the Atlantic Ocean is ripping into the beach with full force. Huge breakers gallop towards the shore, like white horses, frothing and foaming before retreating more quietly. I feel instant, glorious gratification. I’ve hiked four miles and made it to the most beautiful beach in Britain. And it really, truly is beautiful.

For a long time, I sit on the shoreline, quite close to where the waves crash and smash against the sand. I feel totally present, utterly joyful. It is exhilarating to have had to make a reasonably substantial effort to reach this truly magical place. Like I’ve won a prize. And 10,000 steps completed, all before midday! What a result.

Although there are others on the beach, it never feels crowded. I have plenty of space, I don’t even have to speak to anyone. We all politely keep our distance, as though everyone is aware of the special nature of the place we’ve all arrived at. We all respect each others boundaries and keep to our own quarters. I am grateful for that.

Lunch and observations

I’ve packed bread, cheese, an apple and some chocolate to eat. I put cheese into bread, freshly baked that morning, and eat. It’s blissful. Sometimes, the simplest things really are the very best things, especially when there is salt in the air, sand between your toes and sun on your skin.

To my left, out towards the end of the beach where the sea stack rises, a man is throwing a stick of driftwood for his exuberant dog. A couple are walking, hand in hand, heads bowed. A larger group sit, taking off shoes and socks, drinking water. As I finish my rudimentary sandwich and pull out my apple, three guys sprint into the water to my right. I watch as they splash into the shallows, shouting and exclaiming over the shocking cold. Soon, they are fully in, waves rolling over them.

Thoughtfully, I finish the apple while contemplating their activities. They are back out of the water within a few minutes, bodies red from the cold. They towel themselves down briskly and begin dressing, all the while chatting excitedly over their dip. I look back at the water. The waves are rough and roll in one after another, endless, white capped. I have packed my swimming things, but upon seeing the water, I had decided against taking a swim. Now, I reconsider my options. What would make me happy?

Taking a (brisk) dip!

I come to a decision and abruptly stand, brushing sand off my leggings and hoisting my backpack to my shoulder. I trudge up the beach towards the sand dunes and change quickly, pulling on my swimming costume rapidly before I can change my mind. Then, I’m walking back down the beach, heading for what looks like a quieter patch of water. It is somewhat sheltered by an outcrop of rocks.

Without hesitation, I walk into the waves. The water is bitingly cold, but what did I expect? I’m wading into the North Atlantic, of course the water is going to be frigid! A larger wave sweeps in and I’m soaked up to my chest. I splutter and gasp, but continue wading further in, deeper. Suddenly, I’m swimming, and as I swim, something wonderful happens. A smile bursts onto my face, unbidden and yet, I can’t wipe it away either. The ocean, so cold only moments ago, eases to a gentler chill. I swim a few strokes, revelling in the feel of the silky salt water against my skin. My breathing quickly returns to normal and I find that the waves aren’t as rough as they looked from the shore.

I stay in about ten minutes, swimming back and forth, bobbing in the breakers. The competitive, feminist side of me is cheering internally, triumphant. It’s not a contest, and yet here I am, still swimming, I’ve outlasted the three men who were in and out in minutes. Anything they can do, I can do better. At last, just as my fingers begin to turn numb, I decide it’s time to get out and dry off.

My skin tingles in the sun as I towel myself off. I feel light with elation. The real world feels a million miles away, back at the car, four miles of hiking away. This really, truly is a magical place. I feel awe, wonder that I never realised such a place could be found right here, in the UK, no more than a day’s travel from London. Back in clothes, I sit back down to soak up Sandwood Bay Beach once more, bright in the high noon sun.

Reluctant departure and the return journey

All in, I spend about two hours at Sandwood Bay Beach. Before hiking back to the car, I wend my way slowly through the sand dunes, edging my way around the brackish waters of a small, unnamed loch nestled among the dunes. I dabble my bare feet in, the water is warm compared to the Atlantic. With the sun warm on my head and shoulders, I turn my attentions towards finding the path through the dunes that leads me back to the main track. Underfoot, the sand gives way to wiry grass, and I find I need to pull my hiking boots back on. They feel hot and cumbersome after the freedom of warm white sand between my toes.

It’s a short, sharp slog to the top of the hill and there I pause, catching my breath, taking in a last look at the beach. The white sand is gleaming, the water beyond shining in the sun. A man, coming in the opposite direction, grins at me and we exchange pleasantries. I wonder if he’ll swim, how he’ll experience the beach. About fifty people visiting this tract of bright sand in a single day, and everyone experiencing it ever so slightly differently.

One final look. A reluctant step onwards, then another. Soon, I’ve rounded the corner and the beach is lost to me. The moors spread out ahead of me instead, endless in every direction. I plug in my headphones and listen to music as I speed along, revelling in the easy hiking. It’s only an hour or so back to the car, and then a beautiful day of driving ahead to my campsite at Clachtoll that evening. A glorious afternoon of quiet roads, stunning vistas and a beachside campsite lies ahead of me, just as a glorious morning of hiking, swimming and white sand now lies behind me. The perfect day. The best day of the trip.

Sandwood Bay Beach – the practicalities

This is an easy, eight mile return hike. However, it pays to be prepared. The carpark at Blairmore has toilets and a tap to refill water bottles before or after your hike. Make sure you pack plenty of water and dress appropriately for the weather. I’d advise wearing trainers or hiking boots for the walk in and out of Sandwood Bay. If I were you, I’d take a small day pack and carry the following:

• Water – about two litres
• Snacks / a picnic lunch
• Sunscreen
• A towel and your swimming things – just in case you get the urge!
• Waterproofs
• Weather appropriate spare clothing, as needed e.g. a spare jumper, a sun hat or beanie etc
• I took headphones, and was pleased, as the hike back was a little dull and I liked listening to music to pass the time!

Signal is patchy throughout the walk and on the beach, so you can’t necessarily rely on your phone if you need to call for help. Make sure you let someone know where you’re going and how long you intend to be out – if something goes wrong and you’re not back in time, that person can alert the necessary authorities and send help, even if you can’t contact them! It’s really difficult to get lost (the path is so clearly marked), but I’d recommend downloading a map for offline use just in case.

Finally, please don’t swim if you’re not a confident swimmer and are not used to swimming in cold water. If the water looks very rough, think twice about swimming, even if you are a good swimmer. Sometimes, it’s best to be safe than sorry! I’ve marked on an image above where I chose to swim, as this seemed more sheltered than elsewhere on the beach. There are also lochs if you want to swim or paddle, but don’t fancy your chances in the North Atlantic!

To read more about my adventures in Scotland, check out my Scotland archives!