Under The Stars
‘For my part I know nothing with any certainty, but the sight of the stars makes me dream.’ – Vincent Van Gogh.
Head north on Highway 2 out of Wellington, go through Petone and the
Hutt Valley and eventually, you climb into the Rumatuka Hills. This road is a
mountain pass – twisty, full of sharp bends and turns, with a steep incline and
some hairy moments, especially if it’s windy (luckily for us, it wasn’t!).
Hutt Valley and eventually, you climb into the Rumatuka Hills. This road is a
mountain pass – twisty, full of sharp bends and turns, with a steep incline and
some hairy moments, especially if it’s windy (luckily for us, it wasn’t!).
Our car overheated so we stopped at the viewing point at the top of
the pass, an ideal opportunity for photos whilst the car cooled down and
recuperated after its arduous climb. A group of guys who had been in Wellington
for the ANZAC parade pulled up and had a group photo – still dressed in their
uniforms and drinking beers, they chatted to us and checked our car was okay
before they carried on. We waited another couple of minutes and then descended
slowly into Featherston – the car was fine.
the pass, an ideal opportunity for photos whilst the car cooled down and
recuperated after its arduous climb. A group of guys who had been in Wellington
for the ANZAC parade pulled up and had a group photo – still dressed in their
uniforms and drinking beers, they chatted to us and checked our car was okay
before they carried on. We waited another couple of minutes and then descended
slowly into Featherston – the car was fine.
Above: the Rumatuka Mountains from the viewpoint
Turning off Highway 2, we proceeded towards Martinborough, but tookthe Lake Ferry / Cape Palliser road long before we got close to Martinborough.
The road took us across open farmland before winding around the coast towards
Cape Palliser, hugging the cliffs closely with the Pacific Ocean on our right.
Nothing but water between us and South America for thousands of miles (except the
Chatham Islands). It’s a strange feeling – almost like you’re on the edge of
the world.
We were camping at Ngawi (permanent population just 15 people!), just
before the sealed road gave way to the gravel road that takes you the last few
miles to the lighthouse at Cape Palliser. Our campsite was right by the ocean
and we arrived just in time for a glorious sunset. It didn’t take long to pitch
the tents, blow up the beds (we’re no shabby campers!) and crack open some
beers. We sat and watched the sunset and took photos, before deciding it was
time to cook dinner.
before the sealed road gave way to the gravel road that takes you the last few
miles to the lighthouse at Cape Palliser. Our campsite was right by the ocean
and we arrived just in time for a glorious sunset. It didn’t take long to pitch
the tents, blow up the beds (we’re no shabby campers!) and crack open some
beers. We sat and watched the sunset and took photos, before deciding it was
time to cook dinner.
Above: Ngawi sunset at various stages of the sun going down
The wind interfered with two of our three stoves, so we ended up
frying burgers and sausages on one small gas stove, the only one which would
stay alight. After eating and clearing up, we sat and star gazed. The millions
of stars prompted conversations about how small we are in the universe. I saw
three shooting stars, others saw more, others less. We pointed out the Southern
Cross to each other and watched the Milky Way moving slowly across the sky as
the earth rotated. The crescent moon sank slowly in the sky, edging towards the
distant horizon where it would eventually set. The photographers fiddled with
their cameras, changing the settings and trying to get some good shots of the
night sky.
frying burgers and sausages on one small gas stove, the only one which would
stay alight. After eating and clearing up, we sat and star gazed. The millions
of stars prompted conversations about how small we are in the universe. I saw
three shooting stars, others saw more, others less. We pointed out the Southern
Cross to each other and watched the Milky Way moving slowly across the sky as
the earth rotated. The crescent moon sank slowly in the sky, edging towards the
distant horizon where it would eventually set. The photographers fiddled with
their cameras, changing the settings and trying to get some good shots of the
night sky.
Above: Milky Way, from our campsite (Photo taken by Patrick Finnegan)
By 11.30pm, we were all ready for bed. Two in each tent and two in the
car. In the tent, we chatted for an hour or so about lots of random things,
before drifting into a light sleep. The wind woke us regularly – it tore at the
tent, bending the poles almost to breaking point and rattling the zips
constantly. At 2am, I attempted to fall asleep by putting headphones in to
drown out the noise. At 3am, we chatted again briefly, mainly about the noise.
At 6am, we woke up when people talked outside the tent. At 9am, we unzipped the
tent and got up.
car. In the tent, we chatted for an hour or so about lots of random things,
before drifting into a light sleep. The wind woke us regularly – it tore at the
tent, bending the poles almost to breaking point and rattling the zips
constantly. At 2am, I attempted to fall asleep by putting headphones in to
drown out the noise. At 3am, we chatted again briefly, mainly about the noise.
At 6am, we woke up when people talked outside the tent. At 9am, we unzipped the
tent and got up.
After bacon, mushrooms and sausages, we packed up and set off in the
direction of Cape Palliser. Despite how remote the region is (I can imagine in
winter it’s a pretty wild place weather-wise to live!), there were plenty of
other people travelling the road, either day-trippers or fellow campers. It
wasn’t long before we spotted seals basking in the sunshine.
direction of Cape Palliser. Despite how remote the region is (I can imagine in
winter it’s a pretty wild place weather-wise to live!), there were plenty of
other people travelling the road, either day-trippers or fellow campers. It
wasn’t long before we spotted seals basking in the sunshine.
We stopped and took photos. Further along, a massive giant of a seal,
which looked a lot like Jabba the Hutt, was pointed out to us by a group of
Americans and we pulled over again for more photos. He lazed on the beach,
looking so fat and ungainly we wondered how on earth he’d managed to even haul
himself up that far. He yawned occasionally and glowered at us, as if daring us
to come closer. We kept a safe distance – I definitely think he would have come
out better in a fight!
which looked a lot like Jabba the Hutt, was pointed out to us by a group of
Americans and we pulled over again for more photos. He lazed on the beach,
looking so fat and ungainly we wondered how on earth he’d managed to even haul
himself up that far. He yawned occasionally and glowered at us, as if daring us
to come closer. We kept a safe distance – I definitely think he would have come
out better in a fight!
Above: seal version of Jabba the Hutt!!!
At the next stop, we came across a group of pups. They frolicked in
the shallows and lazed around on the beaches. There was one mother feeding her
baby. As I took photos of this, another pup emerged from under a rock and
flopped towards us. He came so close he sniffed my shoe and, almost like a dog,
seemed to want to be petted. He posed for the cameras and greeted people as
they came close by lolloping over and gazing up at them, his eyes huge and very
cute. We named him Jacob and sat there for a while, watching him and talking to
him and about him.
the shallows and lazed around on the beaches. There was one mother feeding her
baby. As I took photos of this, another pup emerged from under a rock and
flopped towards us. He came so close he sniffed my shoe and, almost like a dog,
seemed to want to be petted. He posed for the cameras and greeted people as
they came close by lolloping over and gazing up at them, his eyes huge and very
cute. We named him Jacob and sat there for a while, watching him and talking to
him and about him.
Above: Jacob the friendly baby seal
Above: mother feeding her baby
Finally, we dragged ourselves away and completed our drive to the
lighthouse. It was up a set of 254 steps, straight up an almost vertical cliff.
Four of us took the plunge and climbed up, out of breath by the time we reached
the top but glad we’d done it for the views. Once we’d caught our breath and
taken our fill of photos, we descended once more, back down to sea level.
lighthouse. It was up a set of 254 steps, straight up an almost vertical cliff.
Four of us took the plunge and climbed up, out of breath by the time we reached
the top but glad we’d done it for the views. Once we’d caught our breath and
taken our fill of photos, we descended once more, back down to sea level.
Above: view from Cape Palliser lighthouse
Above: Cape Palliser lighthouse
It was a wonderful way to spend ANZAC weekend. Getting out
of the city and reconnecting a bit with nature, away from phone reception and
the internet. Just us and the stars and the sea and the bloody wind. It was
good to talk and having nothing to do except drink beer and watch the stars and
chat about everything and nothing. I’ve never been a huge fan of camping, but
now I can’t wait to go again! With the right people, in the right place, with
the right amount of blankets and sleeping bags (I had three!), it’s a great way
to get away from it all and just relax. But maybe we’ll choose somewhere a
little less exposed to the elements next time…
of the city and reconnecting a bit with nature, away from phone reception and
the internet. Just us and the stars and the sea and the bloody wind. It was
good to talk and having nothing to do except drink beer and watch the stars and
chat about everything and nothing. I’ve never been a huge fan of camping, but
now I can’t wait to go again! With the right people, in the right place, with
the right amount of blankets and sleeping bags (I had three!), it’s a great way
to get away from it all and just relax. But maybe we’ll choose somewhere a
little less exposed to the elements next time…
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