Postcards from Norway

‘I wonder if the snow loves the trees and fields, that it kisses them so gently? And then it covers them up snug, you know, with a white quilt; and perhaps it says, “Go to sleep, darlings, till the summer comes again.”‘ – Lewis Carroll.

I could scramble to get my camera as the vista opens up before me, but I don’t move. The train trundles on, trees blur past, frigid with cold and wrapped in thick snow blankets. The sky is peachy pink, palest orange, violet. It reflects on a half frozen lake lying along the valley floor. The mountain sides curve down to meet the water, conifer covered. The evergreen branches are weighed down by their winter coats, boughs dipping low. The sight is breathtakingly beautiful and I know if I move to get my camera, I’ll miss it. This is the photo that got away. One for the memory bank alone. Drink in that view with eyes only and lock it away to remember, hopefully forever.

Norway in the winter.

A land of fairy tales, of trolls and magic and ancient folklore. A land that seems as old as time, wrapped in thick snow during our visit. The most snow I’ve ever seen. These are my Postcards from Norway. To see other posts in my Postcards From… series, click here.

My First Sea Ice, Mostraumen, Norway.

We couldn’t go forward any further, due to the risk of potentially damaging the boat. I hung over the bow, gazing ahead as the thin ice covering rippled and flexed over the currents in the water. My first ever sea ice. Sure, it was only mere millimetres thick, but for someone who has dreamed of polar exploration as long as I can remember, this taste of salt water so cold it could freeze filled me with a thrill of excitement. I felt like a child again, seeing something new for the very first time.

The rising sun behind us turned the snowy mountain pink, tinging the snow rose gold. It was quiet all around, save the throb of our boat’s engine echoing up the fjord. I inhaled the shockingly cold morning air and smiled at Mum, who was standing beside me. This was the most perfect way to begin my birthday.

Ripples and Reflections, Mostraumen, Norway.

Our boat slowed as we entered another narrow fjord. The biting wind, that had turned my nose and exposed cheeks pink and had whipped my breath away, dropped suddenly. The cliffs closed around us slowly, majestically. Behind us, the wake of the boat stirred up the still water and caused the reflections to shatter into a thousand pieces as the ripples spread.

We booked the three hour Fjordcruise Bergen – Mostraumen boat tour NOK 600 (£55) per adult. It’s a bit pricey, but totally worth the money and definitely worth the splurge. It is informative, fun and very professionally operated. My parents bought tickets as part of my birthday present, and it was definitely a wonderful present to receive in situ and have a fun half day expedition out into the fjords.

Colourful, Cobbled Streets, Bergen, Norway.

We left Bergen early on the last day, strolling at a leisurely pace through the city to the station to catch our train back to Oslo. It allowed time for us to explore some areas we’d previously missed, and pause if we wanted to take last minute photos of the city.

A lot of the city buildings are built from timber, and many are painted bright, vibrant colours. The back streets are quiet and often cobbled, adding to the quaint and charming vibe around town. The hills around Bergen rise up steeply, so be prepared from some short, occasionally slightly strenuous, climbs if you come to stay. I’d recommend staying in the area where we booked our Airbnb, between Skuteviken and Ladegarden. It wasn’t too far uphill, but quiet and residential, with a lot of pretty streets like this one to explore. It was about a ten-fifteen minute walk from Bryggen and the main harbour area of town.

Birthday Sunset, Fløyen, Norway.

I took the Fløibanen Funicular by myself, as Mum didn’t fancy the trip up the mountainside. Costing NOK 95 (£9) it is slightly pricier than other funicular railways I’ve ridden in the past, but that’s to be expected in Norway where the cost of pretty much everything is high!

I’d timed my trip to coincide with the sunset, and spent a happy two hours at the top of the mountain, gazing over the city as darkness ever so slowly descended, lights sprang on and the sky turned various shades of tangerine, pink and gold before edging into purple and the sun sank finally behind the distant mountains. It was bitterly cold, and I huddled deeply into my recently purchased thick winter coat. The snow underfoot had compacted into extremely slippery ice. I envied the Norwegians who were walked along easily, with studs screwed into their boots.

As a birthday sunset goes, I think this one will be pretty hard to beat!

The Deepest Snow I’ve Ever Seen, somewhere between Bergen and Oslo, Norway.

My very favourite image from Norway. The very essence of winter. The deepest snow I’ve ever seen. The cottage hunkered down among the snow-laden trees. The rose tinted sky. Temperatures outside the train window had plunged to around minus ten here, and yet somehow this photo looks strangely cosy.

All day we had tantalising glimpses into a snowy world. Cross country skiers, a jolly-looking snowman waving stick arms in a backyard, the clapboard houses buried deep in the snow. A snow mobile raced us at Finse for a short distance before we lost it as it plunged behind a low-rise hill.

The train journeys between Oslo and Bergen were my favourite parts of this trip, and the main reason I wanted to travel between the two cities, rather than stay in one place. I would highly recommend this journey. It is considered to be one of the world’s most scenic train journeys, and I can confirm this is absolutely true. Definitely one of the most fascinating and beautiful trips I’ve ever taken.

Sunburst through the Trees, Fløyen, Norway.

I managed to walk about half a mile whilst on the mountain, escaping the noisy viewing deck and slipping my way into the forest, following the icy path among the trees. I clung to the edges, trying to walk on fresh powdery snow as much as possible, creeping along at snail’s pace to avoid falling.

It was blissfully quiet away from the crowds of tourists. I paused to breathe in the fresh air and listen to the silence, every noise muffled by the thick blanket of snow. As I walked slowly back, retracing my footsteps, I was met by two men walking their collie dog. She greeted me enthusiastically, tail wagging, and her owners spoke briefly with me, asking if I was enjoying my stay in Bergen. In the conversation, which lasted mere minutes, we somehow managed to get onto the topic of Bonnie Tyler! The randomness of strangers…

From the Roof, Oslo Opera House, Norway.

We spent our last hour in Oslo climbing the roof of the Opera House, before descending into the bowels of this stunning building to warm up with coffee before we headed to the airport. Despite the fact it was mid-morning, there was a strange quality to the light, as though the sun was struggling to rise above the horizon that day. It was bitterly cold, ice biting through my jeans and stinging my legs.

It was a lovely way to round off the trip and the Opera House is within easy walking distance of the train station, so definitely worth a visit before heading out of the city.

If I have one tip to provide having spent time in Norway’s two biggest cities, it would be this: get out of the cities. While they have things to offer for a short break, I suspect that Norway’s main charms and delights lie outside of the city boundaries, in the great wonderful wilderness beyond and among the boundless mountains and lakes and fjords. Get into the great outdoors. I fully intend to the next time I go to Norway!