City Life
‘You have to pick the places you don’t walk away from.’ – Joan Didion.
New Zealand has just been voted the best country for 2014, and it’s easy to see why. With its stunning scenery, impossibly blue glacial rivers, snow capped peaks, Lord of the Rings and Hobbit fame, volcanic past, friendly locals, endless beaches and fantastic marine wildlife, there can be no doubt that New Zealand truly is one beautiful and awe-inspiring country. So much is made of New Zealand’s countryside – the ever-changing vistas that slide past the car, bus, train window that leave you spellbound at every corner. Not so much is made of the cities, and that’s kind of understandable once you’ve spent a few weeks travelling the country. But the cities do have offerings to make, and I’d like to compare and contrast and ultimately, give my opinions, on the four cities I have visited so far whilst I’ve been in New Zealand.
I use the term ‘city’ loosely. There is no doubt that Auckland is a city, sprawling and vibrant. Wellington too, with its high rise CBD, but it was small, walkable, easily navigated from one end of the central district to the other in less than half an hour. One of the smaller capital cities in the world, London it is not! Then there’s Christchurch. This too felt city-like, but so much of the city was sadly devastated by the 2011 earthquake that is considerably reduced from its former glory. And finally, Queenstown. The main reason I use the term ‘city’ loosely, as it is hardly a city, more an oversized ski resort with adrenaline boosting activities thrown in for such minded people.
The first impression I got of New Zealand was Auckland. It was not a particularly great first impression of this beautiful country, but I have to say I warmed to the city after a couple of days. A walk to the top of Rangitoto Island and a visit to the city zoo helped me to see that there is much the city has to offer, beyond the usual CBD, K Road and Ponsonby. If I had stayed longer, I’m sure more excursions would have continued to sway me, such as visiting the Sky Tower, going to Auckland Museum, seeing the One Tree Hill district, taking a ferry to some of the other islands… There is no doubt that there is plenty to see and do in Auckland, if you’re willing to seek it out. But I did not instantly fall in love with the city, and I was eager to get out into the famous countryside to see it for myself. So I left after four nights and returned for one night only before flying to Queenstown. I know I’ll go back there, never to work or stay longer than a few more nights, but I do want to see a few more things this city has to offer, and give it the chance I’m sure it deserves before passing a complete judgement!
Queenstown came next on my itinerary. I had expected it to be bigger and more cosmopolitan and was surprised by the intimacy of the place, the fact that everyone seemed to know everyone. The country around Queenstown is what makes the ‘city’ memorable, for sure. You only need to look up to the Remarkables to remember you’re in the best country of 2014. Wander around the city and it definitely feels like a ski resort town. There are even Alpine style buildings, and cobbled walkways to take you right back to Europe in a flash. Then there’s the party scene – so many bars, pubs and clubs you lose track after three (no doubt, by then, you’re smashed anyway!). I arrived in Queenstown feeling homesick and feel that my first impressions were clouded somewhat by that fact. After a couple of days, I began to see the beauty of the place, the rugged mountains, the lake… It has to be one of the prettiest locations for a town ever. I returned twice and liked it a little more every time, but I still do not think I would like to live there for any great amount of time. Visiting is fun – there are countless activities, from luging to bungy, canyon swing to helicopter tours, horse trekking to downhill mountain biking, walking to steam boating around the lake. And be prepared for the expenses… You will arrive a king and leave a pauper, that’s for sure!
Two nights in Christchurch was enough time for me to fall completely in love with the parts of the city that I saw. I had been forewarned by various people that it was boring, there wasn’t a lot there anymore, not since the earthquake. But I was determined to go. I wanted to see for myself, and I didn’t think I would be disappointed. And I wasn’t. I loved the huge park, with the botanic gardens at the heart of it, and wandered through them happily for a couple of hours. I loved the Antarctic Centre experience, what a fantastic city attraction. I loved visiting Canterbury Museum, the Re:Start Mall and felt sad to see the once great Cathedral fallen into ruin thanks to the earthquake. I hope that one day it can be restored to its former glory, as beautiful as the pictures I have seen of it before the earthquake. I found the vast empty spaces where buildings have been ripped out entirely fascinating, the whole city one great building site, a whole new start for a new generation. I saw nothing ugly or boring about Christchurch, but a once vibrant and beautiful city just beginning to get back up onto its feet, determined, dusting itself off and facing up to the future. It will be wonderful again very soon, I feel certain. I can’t wait to return.
I liked Christchurch so much that I nearly stayed there to look for work, instead of coming to Wellington. But my plan had always been Wellington, so I came here as arranged. I’m glad I did. Whilst Christchurch is wonderful, there was not necessarily a place for me there yet amongst the rebuild. Here in Wellington, I feel I can make a home for a few months, find some work and live a happy life in this colourful, artsy, waterfront city. Wellington feels happy. Everyone seems to be enjoying their life, going about their daily business. It is bustling and vibrant. It sucks you in – I loved it after the first few days. The waterfront with its cafes and bars, the museums and parks. It’s one of my favourite places to go, a stroll along beside the ocean, people watching. It reminds me a little of my favourite place in London, the South Bank, and I like that. There is also a wealth of places to go and things to do here, from the Te Papa Museum to the cable car, the waterfront to the weekend markets. I don’t think that you could really ever be bored in Wellington. It is the capital city, and it feels it, despite its diminutive size. There is something grand about it and it has something that Auckland lacks, but I can’t quite put a finger on what it is.
Needless to say, I am happy to be living in Wellington now for the foreseeable future. I feel I will enjoy my time here. I am comfortable here, I like the smaller size, but the fact that there is still enough people around so that you do not feel like everyone knows you. Put simply, in my opinion, Wellington has all the best qualities of the other three cities, Auckland, Queenstown and Christchurch. Thrown together, the qualities make up this great little city that I am now pleased to call home for the next few months.
I would put it to you, if you visit New Zealand or are in New Zealand, to give the cities a chance. They may not have the huge, breath-taking moments you experience whilst driving through the rest of the country, but they have their specialities that make them worth a visit. My personal recommendations would be: Rangitoto in Auckland, luging in Queenstown, the Antarctic Centre and the Botanic Gardens in Christchurch and the markets and coffee in Wellington. Go see the cities for yourself and pick a favourite. And this is a self-confessed country girl writing this, urging you to go!!