Camel Trekking in Erg Chebbi
‘Know where to find the sunrise and sunset times and note how the sky looks at those times, at least once.’ – Marilyn vos Savant.
This is the third and final part of my three part series about my time in Morocco in June last year. H and I traveled from Marrakech to Merzouga to take a camel trek through the Erg Chebbi sand dunes and spend the night in a Berber camp, experiencing both sunset and sunrise in the desert, before heading back to Marrakech for the last part of our holiday.
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We had timed our arrival at Merzouga for late afternoon. The trip we
were on included a camel ride into the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, with the
opportunity to watch the sunset in the desert. We would then be spending the
night at a Berber camp in the middle of the dunes, before getting up before
dawn and riding our camels back out to Merzouga, with a stop off en-route for
sunrise photos. H and I were both excited – this would be the highlight of our
trip and it had been one of the main reasons we decided to come to Morocco for
our holiday.
were on included a camel ride into the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, with the
opportunity to watch the sunset in the desert. We would then be spending the
night at a Berber camp in the middle of the dunes, before getting up before
dawn and riding our camels back out to Merzouga, with a stop off en-route for
sunrise photos. H and I were both excited – this would be the highlight of our
trip and it had been one of the main reasons we decided to come to Morocco for
our holiday.
We were met in Merzouga by a couple of Berber men, who showed us how
to tie our scarves around our heads so that our faces would be protected from
the sand and sun. There’s definitely an art to it! With our new scarves in place,
it was time to mount up and be on our way.
to tie our scarves around our heads so that our faces would be protected from
the sand and sun. There’s definitely an art to it! With our new scarves in place,
it was time to mount up and be on our way.
Unless you’ve ridden a camel before, it’s hard to fully understand how
strange it is initially. It’s nothing like riding a horse, not least because
the camel must be sitting down for you to mount it. Once on, the camel is then
told by its owner to stand up, and you’re jerked forwards and then backwards
quite violently as the camel stands up rather awkwardly and with some very
jerky movements.
strange it is initially. It’s nothing like riding a horse, not least because
the camel must be sitting down for you to mount it. Once on, the camel is then
told by its owner to stand up, and you’re jerked forwards and then backwards
quite violently as the camel stands up rather awkwardly and with some very
jerky movements.
I let H go first. I’m nice like that. We were soon both mounted though,
our legs dangling either side of our camels and we were ready to head out into
the dunes. The sun was sinking in the sky but it was still hot as we approached
the dunes, leaving civilisation behind us for the night.
our legs dangling either side of our camels and we were ready to head out into
the dunes. The sun was sinking in the sky but it was still hot as we approached
the dunes, leaving civilisation behind us for the night.
I don’t know what I expected, but the dunes were not quite the
wilderness I’d been imagining. As well as our camel train (led by a Berber
guide on foot, with me and H on our camels and Guide Abdul walking alongside,
also on foot) there were several other camel chains wending their way through
the dunes. There was the roar of an engine and a group in a 4×4 could be seen
driving in the distance. People were on foot too – climbing the tallest dunes,
the air ringing with distant laughter and shouting as everyone got into place
for the sunset.
wilderness I’d been imagining. As well as our camel train (led by a Berber
guide on foot, with me and H on our camels and Guide Abdul walking alongside,
also on foot) there were several other camel chains wending their way through
the dunes. There was the roar of an engine and a group in a 4×4 could be seen
driving in the distance. People were on foot too – climbing the tallest dunes,
the air ringing with distant laughter and shouting as everyone got into place
for the sunset.
After about an hour, we dismounted from our camels to climb one of the
dunes ourselves to watch the sunset. It was hard going – one step forwards, two
back. I was exhausted by the time I reached the top of the dune, breathing
heavily and very hot. We sat, perched on the edge of our dune, and watched the
sun sink below the horizon. Guide Abdul explained that it wasn’t the best of
sunsets – there was too much dust in the atmosphere, making it hazy and not
that majestic. He said that sunrises were often better. I felt a little let
down. Seeing a sunset in the desert was on my bucket list and it wasn’t at all
as amazing as I’d imagined it would be.
dunes ourselves to watch the sunset. It was hard going – one step forwards, two
back. I was exhausted by the time I reached the top of the dune, breathing
heavily and very hot. We sat, perched on the edge of our dune, and watched the
sun sink below the horizon. Guide Abdul explained that it wasn’t the best of
sunsets – there was too much dust in the atmosphere, making it hazy and not
that majestic. He said that sunrises were often better. I felt a little let
down. Seeing a sunset in the desert was on my bucket list and it wasn’t at all
as amazing as I’d imagined it would be.
Above: endless sand
Back with the camels, I opted to walk the last part of the journey to
our camp. My camel had baskets on board as well as me and the rough woven reeds
were rubbing my legs, making the skin come out in a rash. It was nice to walk
barefoot in the sand.
our camp. My camel had baskets on board as well as me and the rough woven reeds
were rubbing my legs, making the skin come out in a rash. It was nice to walk
barefoot in the sand.
By the time we reached our camp for the night, it was practically
dark. H and I were shown to our tent – two narrow beds covered in thick
blankets were the only furniture. We unpacked our torches and I put on my
fleece – the night was chilly despite the heat of the day. We had a few minutes
of concern – we seemed to be the only two tourists at the camp, with about ten
Berber men. Where were the other people who should be staying? For a while, we
felt a bit apprehensive that we were the only tourists there, and wondered what
on earth was going on. Eventually, the other tourists turned up, a group of
Italians and two American women. I think H and I both felt rather relieved – it
definitely would have been awkward if it had just been us two all evening!
dark. H and I were shown to our tent – two narrow beds covered in thick
blankets were the only furniture. We unpacked our torches and I put on my
fleece – the night was chilly despite the heat of the day. We had a few minutes
of concern – we seemed to be the only two tourists at the camp, with about ten
Berber men. Where were the other people who should be staying? For a while, we
felt a bit apprehensive that we were the only tourists there, and wondered what
on earth was going on. Eventually, the other tourists turned up, a group of
Italians and two American women. I think H and I both felt rather relieved – it
definitely would have been awkward if it had just been us two all evening!
The Italian group kept themselves to themselves and were even a little
rude. The American women joined H and I at our table for dinner and we chatted
about our homes, our travelling adventures and why we were all in Morocco. Our
tagines were delicious – the best tagine I ate whilst in Morocco. There was
bread with them and salad too. After dinner, I wandered beyond the camp to see
the stars. They were, as I’d expected, bright and plentiful, with little light
pollution in the desert to diminish them.
rude. The American women joined H and I at our table for dinner and we chatted
about our homes, our travelling adventures and why we were all in Morocco. Our
tagines were delicious – the best tagine I ate whilst in Morocco. There was
bread with them and salad too. After dinner, I wandered beyond the camp to see
the stars. They were, as I’d expected, bright and plentiful, with little light
pollution in the desert to diminish them.
We listened to some traditional Berber drumming (H even had a go at it
herself!) before heading to bed. We’d had a long day – driving from Dades Gorge
via Todgha Gorge and a good three-four hours in the minivan to reach Merzouga.
The beds were hard and not the most comfortable, the Italians made a lot of
noise and we did not sleep well.
herself!) before heading to bed. We’d had a long day – driving from Dades Gorge
via Todgha Gorge and a good three-four hours in the minivan to reach Merzouga.
The beds were hard and not the most comfortable, the Italians made a lot of
noise and we did not sleep well.
After a snatched 4 hours, we were up again to be on our way before
dawn. The plan was the reach a higher point so that we could watch the sunrise
before heading back to Merzouga on our camels. Half asleep, we donned our
clothes from the day before and both agreed that we were very much looking
forward to our promised shower when we arrived back at the Kasbah, where we
would also get breakfast.
dawn. The plan was the reach a higher point so that we could watch the sunrise
before heading back to Merzouga on our camels. Half asleep, we donned our
clothes from the day before and both agreed that we were very much looking
forward to our promised shower when we arrived back at the Kasbah, where we
would also get breakfast.
We were soon back on our camels. The baskets had been removed from my
camel, and it was a much comfier return journey through the dunes, broken by a
ten minute stop whilst the sun rose. As Guide Abdul had predicted, the sunrise
was far better than the sunset and I took plenty of photos, thrilled at the
experience. We were both quiet, enjoying the magic that is a sunrise in the
middle of a desert. Finally, we set off again, it was time to head back to
civilisation.
camel, and it was a much comfier return journey through the dunes, broken by a
ten minute stop whilst the sun rose. As Guide Abdul had predicted, the sunrise
was far better than the sunset and I took plenty of photos, thrilled at the
experience. We were both quiet, enjoying the magic that is a sunrise in the
middle of a desert. Finally, we set off again, it was time to head back to
civilisation.
Above: sunrise at Erg Chebbi
I preferred the camel ride out of the desert, mainly because the
baskets from the day before had been removed. Perching on a camel gives you a
great vantage point and I enjoyed watching the world go past. Tracks of dung
beetles were everywhere in the sand and the dunes were quieter at this early
hour. It felt more magical and special than it had done the night before.
baskets from the day before had been removed. Perching on a camel gives you a
great vantage point and I enjoyed watching the world go past. Tracks of dung
beetles were everywhere in the sand and the dunes were quieter at this early
hour. It felt more magical and special than it had done the night before.
All too soon, it was over. The camels jerked into sitting positions
for us to get off. I had one last photo with my camel and it was well and truly
the end. Feeling sad to be leaving the dunes so soon, we headed into the Kasbah
to take showers, change into clean clothes and have breakfast. It was our last
day of the trip and we had a long drive ahead of us – ten hours back to
Marrakech. I was exhausted too and planned to sleep away as much of the journey
as I could.
for us to get off. I had one last photo with my camel and it was well and truly
the end. Feeling sad to be leaving the dunes so soon, we headed into the Kasbah
to take showers, change into clean clothes and have breakfast. It was our last
day of the trip and we had a long drive ahead of us – ten hours back to
Marrakech. I was exhausted too and planned to sleep away as much of the journey
as I could.
Showering felt really good. Sleeping in the middle of the desert makes
you feel pretty grimy and we hadn’t had an opportunity to shower for a day or
so beforehand either. Fresh and in clean clothes, we then headed to breakfast,
both starving after our early start and the dawn camel ride. There was bread,
cream cheese, jam and orange juice. I made a sandwich for the journey and
devoured slice after slice of bread.
you feel pretty grimy and we hadn’t had an opportunity to shower for a day or
so beforehand either. Fresh and in clean clothes, we then headed to breakfast,
both starving after our early start and the dawn camel ride. There was bread,
cream cheese, jam and orange juice. I made a sandwich for the journey and
devoured slice after slice of bread.
Above: last photo with our camels
All too soon, it was time to get in the minivan and begin our journey back
to Marrakech. The rolling Erg Chebbi sand dunes once again reduced into the
distance, giving way to the desert we saw for the majority of the trip – rubble
strewn, a vast, empty landscape of dust and rock, flat in every direction. I
closed my eyes and dropped into a light doze, which I proceeded to keep up for
much of the quiet journey back.
to Marrakech. The rolling Erg Chebbi sand dunes once again reduced into the
distance, giving way to the desert we saw for the majority of the trip – rubble
strewn, a vast, empty landscape of dust and rock, flat in every direction. I
closed my eyes and dropped into a light doze, which I proceeded to keep up for
much of the quiet journey back.
Our desert experience was over far too soon. The camel ride was great,
our time at the Berber camp interesting (despite the lack of sleep) and we had
been very well taken care of. Much to my relief, the sunrise had been
excellent, extinguishing any irritation that the sunset had not been so good. Now,
I was tired and all I wanted was a comfortable bed for the night, some tasty
food and the luxury of our second riad.
our time at the Berber camp interesting (despite the lack of sleep) and we had
been very well taken care of. Much to my relief, the sunrise had been
excellent, extinguishing any irritation that the sunset had not been so good. Now,
I was tired and all I wanted was a comfortable bed for the night, some tasty
food and the luxury of our second riad.
I was not disappointed. Our second riad was beautiful, the perfect way
to end our trip in Morocco. We relaxed in the courtyard, ate out, browsed the
souks some more and before we knew it, it was time to head back to the airport
to board our flight home. As we took off, I stared longingly out of the window,
sad to be leaving not only Morocco, but Africa in general. Morocco was my
second experience in Africa and it definitely was not and is not going to be my
last. Africa has captured my heart – I think it’s a beautiful continent with so
much to offer the world if you look beyond the troubles and meet the people,
see the places, experience the sights and sounds and smells. It’s absolutely
wonderful.
to end our trip in Morocco. We relaxed in the courtyard, ate out, browsed the
souks some more and before we knew it, it was time to head back to the airport
to board our flight home. As we took off, I stared longingly out of the window,
sad to be leaving not only Morocco, but Africa in general. Morocco was my
second experience in Africa and it definitely was not and is not going to be my
last. Africa has captured my heart – I think it’s a beautiful continent with so
much to offer the world if you look beyond the troubles and meet the people,
see the places, experience the sights and sounds and smells. It’s absolutely
wonderful.
I will never forget my night in the desert at Erg Chebbi / Merzouga. I’m
especially grateful I got to do that trip with H, who is one of my best friends
and who is a fantastic person to have these kinds of adventures with. I can’t
wait to go back to Africa (hopefully in the not too distant future…) and I can’t
wait to go on another adventure with H (also hopefully in the not too distant
future!).
especially grateful I got to do that trip with H, who is one of my best friends
and who is a fantastic person to have these kinds of adventures with. I can’t
wait to go back to Africa (hopefully in the not too distant future…) and I can’t
wait to go on another adventure with H (also hopefully in the not too distant
future!).
The Logistics
We booked a popular 2 night, 3 day trip from Marrakech to Merzouga / Erg Chebbi and back through a company called Camel Trekking. The price (approximately two hundred pounds per person, I seem to remember) included two breakfasts, two dinners, our accommodation for two nights, the camel trek, all our transportation and the side trips taken to Dades Gorge, Todgha Gorge and Ait Benhaddou, among other stops.
We were always treated courteously and professionally, both by our guide and driver, as well as the manager whom we emailed to book our trip. Both Abdul’s were very knowledgeable about Morocco and they really helped make our trip truly fantastic. I highly recommend this company to anyone who is considering visiting Morocco and would like an organised tour to see some of the main attractions of this beautiful country. As well as the trip we took, there are other options available and I believe they also tailor make some trips to fit into people’s itineraries.
We were picked up from our accommodation in Marrakech on our departure day and Guide Abdul even came with us to help us find our new accommodation when we arrived back in Marrakech (it was out of the way and we would never have found it by ourselves!).
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